Eastern Peregrinations
I have always been fascinated with the art of falconry and the history of the Silk Route from the East. With mounting anticipation and excitement, I departed Stansted Airport for Istanbul – the gateway to the East. From there, the flight continued with Pegasus Airlines to Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, and proved to be most entertaining.
Sandwiched between two large Soviet exiles who spoke no English but were very fond of a bottle of Russian vodka – which was passed frequently between us – the journey was certainly memorable. (pic 01)
My curiosity awoke during the descent into Bishkek. After a fairly raucous flight, a sudden silence fell across the cabin as many passengers clasped prayer beads and began praying. As the plane touched down, the passengers erupted into spontaneous applause and cheering, relieved and thankful to be reunited with terra firma.
Bishkek Airport is something of a relic from Kyrgyzstan’s Soviet past, reflecting the country’s time as part of the Soviet Union until its independence in 1991. (pic 1)
After being warmly welcomed by our Kyrgyz hosts, we travelled on a six-hour drive along the riverine border with Kazakhstan to the town of Cholpon Ata, on the shores of Lake Issyk Kul. At an altitude of around 1700 metres, with the Tien Shan mountains rising dramatically above us, it would be our home for several remarkable days. (pic 2a / pic 2b)
Lake Issyk Kul is the second largest saline lake after the Caspian Sea and the location of the Ruh Ordu Conference Centre. This was the venue for the 48th International Association for Falconry Council of Delegates Meeting, which we had travelled to attend. (pic 3)
The opening ceremony was held at this unique venue — the Ruh Ordu Centre — a park filled with beautiful sculptures and shrines representing the world’s major religions.
Delegates from across the globe were treated to demonstrations of traditional Kyrgyz culture, including falconry, archery, and hunting dogs known as Taigan hounds. The evening concluded with a concert of traditional music, set against the stunning backdrop of Lake Issyk Kul and the snow-capped Tien Shan mountains. (pic 4 & 5)
More prosaically, the official agenda of the International Association for Falconry (IAF) was conducted on Monday afternoon and Tuesday. Among the key items discussed were applications for membership from several new associations, including Chinese and Korean falconry organisations.
Wednesday saw us travelling to the more remote southern shore of the lake. The journey included the unveiling of a commemorative plaque by Adrian Lombard and Almaz Akunov to mark the 48th IAF Delegates Meeting in Kyrgyzstan.
This was followed by the laying of stones to form a cairn by the delegates. It is hoped that this location will become a notable place of pilgrimage for falconers travelling through Central Asia — perhaps even worthy of a mention on TripAdvisor. (pic 6)
The latter part of the journey took us along dirt tracks to the high meadows of the surrounding mountains, where a traditional yurt camp had been established — the location of the Salburun Games, a nomadic cultural festival.
These festivals celebrate many aspects of traditional East Asian nomadic heritage. Demonstrations included golden eagle hunting, mounted horseback archery, and Kok-Boru — a dramatic form of polo played on horseback using a goat carcass. (pic 07 / 08 / 09)
Many of the participants had travelled from remote mountain villages on horseback, accompanied by magnificent golden eagles, the occasional Bactrian camel, and Taigan hunting dogs.
The day concluded with a delicious traditional meal of roast goat and mutton served in the communal yurts.
On Thursday we returned to the Ruh Ordu Conference Centre for the International Conference on Saker Falcon Conservation.
The conference included fascinating presentations and lectures by Dr Peit Witt, Professor Robert Kenward, and Dr Andrew Dixon on the biology and conservation of the Saker Falcon (Falco cherrug), a species currently facing serious environmental threats.
Among the most significant challenges are illegal trapping and electrocution caused by ageing electrical infrastructure across the high plains of Mongolia. (pic 10 / 11)
After these travels we concluded our visit with a trip to the high resort town of Cholpon Ata and the archaeological site of the ancient petroglyph fields.
This vast area at the foothills of the mountains contains thousands of engraved boulders depicting ibex, snow leopards, hunting scenes, and ancient nomadic life. (pic 12 / 13)
In retrospect, I would like to thank our hosts in Kyrgyzstan and say how privileged I feel to have been invited to such a prestigious conference in Eastern Asia.
Chong Rahmat!!
Horace Tarquinius Davis
Old Lodge Farm
Grafton Road
Brigstock
Northamptonshire
Photos courtesy of Nancy Solleveld & Mia Jessen
